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The history of the canal
system is inseparable from the industrial heritage of
Britain and The Black Country Ring exemplifies this
perfectly. This area gained its name in the mid
nineteenth century due to the smoke from the many
thousands of ironworking foundries and forges and also
because of the nature of the countryside, which had been
covered by dark spoil from the working of shallow coal
seams. The industries of the region included coal and
coke, iron and steel, locks and keys, nails, chains,
ships anchors, glassware, beer and stout, all of which
were originally transported by narrow boat.
 After
leaving our marina and heading North West along the
Coventry Canal, you will quickly find yourself at the
first eleven of the many locks that you will encounter
on your voyage. The lock side town of Atherstone is a
good place to stop for your provisions or to enjoy a
meal. The Coventry Canal then continues through several
small towns and villages; eyes left for the imposing
Pooley Hall and the simple beauty of the remains of a
twelfth century priory. At the functional Fazeley
Junction (right) turn left onto the Birmingham
and Fazeley Canal, completed in 1789. Eleven locks later
you will come to Curdworth and the first of two tunnels.
That day’s cruising should conclude somewhere between
Curdworth and the outskirts of Minworth where several
shops, pubs and a steakhouse will offer a range of
evening meal solutions! It is highly recommended that
you do not moor beyond Wigginshill Road Bridge
overnight.
The terrain begins to
take on an increasingly citified feel on the two hour
journey to Salford. Once there, look upwards and you
will see Spaghetti junction. Motorway and canal will
meet several times as you make your steady 3-4 mile an
hour progress, surprisingly removed from the roar of
hundreds of vehicles travelling at ten times that speed
above you. Your climb into Birmingham will consist of a
demanding five hours with 24 lock (Aston and Farmer’s
Bridge) crammed into less than three miles. (Make sure
your lock working skills are up to scratch as this is
likely to be a somewhat public spectacle.) This stretch
is rich with the essence of its industrial past; a
subterranean world of Victorian mystique. You eventually
emerge at Old Turn Junction, complete with mid water
roundabout. To your left is the avant garde world of Gas
Street Basin. You may choose to suspend your journey to
enjoy the wealth of attractions including a huge
selection of waterside eateries at Brindley Place, the
famous Sea Life Centre with its 360° submarine tunnel,
shopping and leisure activities at the mailbox and the
Ikon Art Gallery. To your right the Black Country Ring
takes you on to the BCN - 'Birmingham Canal Navigation'.
Built originally in 1772
by James Brindley (famous enough in engineering terms to
have a whole modern day ‘place’ named after him!), the
Old Main Line meandered between foundries and works
following the natural contours of the land. In the
1830’s Thomas Telford constructed the New Main Line
mostly with precision straightness. This much more
direct route from Birmingham to Wolverhampton displays
his bold style and innovative engineering techniques.
The canal’s duality is immediately evident in the many
loops and abandoned sections. At Smethwick Junction you
can choose eighteenth or nineteenth century canal. Each
has their own particular charms and eyesores, examples
of urban regeneration and re-greening and some wonderful
architecture (look out for the renovated pump house at
Brasshouse Lane) and interesting bridges. Just before
these unique parallel canals re-converge at Tipton, the
Old Main Line gives access to The Black Country Museum.
Here you can find secure overnight moorings. Describing
itself as ‘Britain’s Friendliest Open-air Museum’ its 26
acres boasts historic buildings from all around the
Black Country that have been authentically rebuilt.
Electric tramcars and trolleybuses transport visitors
back in time from the modern exhibition halls to the
canal-side village, where costumed demonstrators and
working craftsmen bring the buildings to life with their
local knowledge, practical skills and unique Black
Country humour.
At Coseley you will pass
through your second short tunnel before encountering the
Wolverhampton twenty one, a flight of twenty one locks
leading you away from their namesake’s hustle and bustle
to the rural junction at Aldersley. Turn right and you
will soon find yourself at Pendeford Rockin where the
canal narrows to a single boat’s width with passing
places! As you continue to cruise your fourth canal of
the Black Country Ring, the scenery once again becomes
the epitome of tranquility. At Gailey Lock there is a
fine example of one of the canal’s distinctive
roundhouses, utilised as a canal shop. Gailey Lock is
the first of twelve which take you slowly down to the
end of the Staffs and Worcs at Haywood Junction.
Take
a right here onto the Trent and Mersey Canal, lying in
the valley of the Trent River and often running parallel
to it. This section of the Black Country Ring is
arguably the prettiest. South of the canal lies Cannock
Chase, an area of dense woodland, and the beautiful
Shugborough Hall and Country Museum (above), accessed from the
canal over the River Trent via Essex Bridge. This
historic working country estate offers a range of sights
and activities that will keep you busy for a whole
afternoon whilst some of the statues and follies in the
spectacular Georgian gardens can be spotted by the keen
eyed from the canal. The villages of Great and Little
Haywood have retained their picturesque centres and
offer good watering holes for the hungry or thirsty
traveller. Make the most of the charm of this section,
for soon you find yourself chugging through the towns of Rugeley, Armitage and Handsacre. The local power station
dominates the views here and colours the scenery with
grey emissions but it is fascinating to see the varied
ingenuity of the town’s canal side back gardens. Just
before Armitage (of bathroom fittings fame) the canal
narrows dramatically in what was formerly a tunnel. It’s
wise to send someone up ahead to check for oncoming
boats as there is no room to pass. Farm and woodland
reprieve the last of the Trent and Mersey before you
reach historic Fradley Junction. This picture postcard
location remains unspoiled and the Swan Inn pub still
offers a traditional canal side welcome. Right at
Fradley (below) sees you back on the Coventry
Canal, also at its rural best. Pretty villages,
including the lovely Hopwas with
its twin canal side pubs, are intercepted by stunning
woodland and the odd glimpse of the River Tame. All too
soon you are back at functional Fazeley and following
the Coventry back to Springwood Haven. |
