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The Coventry Canal was
started in 1768, with the famous engineer James Brindley
being commissioned to oversee its construction. Mr
Brindley, a bit of a perfectionist, caused the canal
company to run out of money in 1769, when the canal was
only half completed. The disgruntled company replaced
Brindley with Thomas Yeoman but the canal remained
unfinished
for another seventeen years. It was finally completed
and opened in 1790 with some help from the Birmingham
and Fazely and the Trent and Mersey Canal Companies.
Evidence of this remains, in that the bridges between
Fazeley and Whittington have evocative names such as
Tamhorn Park Bridge and Balls Bridge, (see picture
courtesy
Up
The Cut) a là Birmingham and Fazeley, rather than
the uninspiring numbers routinely used on the rest of
the Coventry Canal. The canal was, for many years, of
great importance especially for transporting coal and
other minerals from Nuneaton, Bedworth and Coventry to
the rest of the midlands and the south. It was taken
over by British Waterways in 1948 and in 1957 the
Coventry Canal Society was established to support its
maintenance, redevelopment and protection.
With little evidence of
its industrial roots, the Coventry Canal runs from its
junction with the Trent and Mersey Canal at Fradley, all
the way to Coventry. Historic Fradley is a picture
postcard example of an unspoiled canal community. It was
constructed with houses and cottages for the company
workers, warehouses and a maintenance yard. Today the
later houses British Waterways’ offices, a canalside
cafe, shop and information centre. Central to the
community is The Swan Inn pub which offers a warm
welcome and great food, but can become very busy in the
summer months. The proliferation of colourful boats is
rivaled only by the abundant Wildfowl. To the west,
Fradley Pool offers a picturesque testimony to the
rivalry between the Trent and Mersey Canal Company and
that of the Coventry Canal. Unwilling to share their
water, the Trent and Mersey’s surplus was siphoned off
at an overflow weir and secretly channeled beneath the
Swan Inn and behind the neighbouring cottages, before
returning to the Trent & Mersey Canal to the east of the
junction. The excess water was stored in a purpose built
reservoir which now forms the central feature of the
award winning Fradley Pool Nature Reserve.
The stretch between
Fradley and Fazeley is, arguably, the Coventry Canal at
its most beautiful. A disused aerodrome and farmland
lead you to Streethay Wharf, a fine example of one of
the many new marinas on this canal. The next point of
note is Huddlesford Junction where the Plough Inn
provides a hearty meal. This delightful location was
once the intersection between the Coventry and the
Wyreley and Essington Canal. Much of this is derelict
but it is being restored and is to be renamed the
Lichfield Canal. This, along with the Hatherton Canal,
also under restoration, is destined to provide a new
link to the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal.
Interestingly the M6 toll road, built in 2003, has an
empty, unconnected aqueduct constructed over it in
readiness for the canal’s intersection. Whittington
follows and then, over the next couple of miles,
farmland gives way to increasingly dense and beautiful
woodland with the River Tame making an appearance to the
left of the canal. Here the MOD is inclined to practice
manoeuvres, but kindly indicate this with red ‘keep out’
flags. As you enter the lovely village of Hopwas the
pubs either side of the canal by Lichfield Road Bridge,
compete for your custom. We like the cleverly named Tame
Otter, but feel free to do your own research!
The canal indulges in a
few more miles of rural tranquility before finding
itself at Fazeley, the junction with the Birmingham and
Fazeley Canal. Where Fradley is historic and charming,
Fazeley is modern, built up and functional. Peel’s Wharf
houses the local British Waterways offices and offers
good moorings with full facilities and access to a large
number of shops. Turn left here to remain on the
Coventry. On the outskirts of Tamworth an attractive
aqueduct takes you across the River Tame. The canal
sticks to the outside of the town, but a walk from
bridge 73 will take you into the town centre where you
will find a Norman castle reinstated as a museum, an
indoor ski slope, (the only one in Europe with real
snow), and lots of places to eat including a bistro,
Italian restaurant, Indian restaurant and several pubs.
Between bridges 74 and 73 you will find the first of
Coventry’s Locks. These two at Glascote are, like most
on the Coventry, slow to fill and quick to empty, but,
despite its suburban location, this is a pretty setting
and lingering here is no hardship. Amington follows,
which also offers a range of eating and shopping
facilities. Just beyond, the canal passes close enough
to a golf course for you to wave at the golfers and for
their balls to threaten your windows!
Back
in the countryside you are soon passing by Alvecote
Marina. The simple beauty of the remains of a twelfth
century priory can be glimpsed on the right, whilst
there is a nature reserve on the left. Hill top
monuments can be spotted in the distance and the
imposing Pooley Hall lords over the canal from its bank
elevation. Polesworth, a small town huddled around the
Anker River, is not without charm. It has a fifteenth
century abbey and a large Norman church. In more recent
history it was the home of the Messrs Lees and Atkins
boatyard, famed for its distinctive ‘Roses and Castles’
boat decoration (see pictures right) and much in demand
for the building and maintenance of ‘Number Ones’, the
prestigious owner/operators of working canal boats.
Shops, pubs and takeaways are on offer.
Rural
landscapes return on the approach to Atherstone Locks.
Allow two to three hours to ascend this (loosely
speaking) flight of eleven locks, which are spread out
over nearly two miles. The first few of the locks allow
you to enjoy the beauty of the Trent Valley and views of
the Anker River. Soon woodland begins to vie with
warehouses. If you wish to visit the town, walk along
the path by bridge 43 or 41. Once of note for its hat
making, it now enjoys a reputation for second hand book
shops and its 800 year old Shrove Tuesday ‘Ball Game’ in
which hundreds of locals try to take possession of a
giant ball for a couple of hours. There is a choice of
supermarkets and, apparently, the most pubs on any high
street in Britain. Atherstone town centre in the evening
is, therefore, what you might expect from somewhere that
has “the most pubs on any high street in Britain”. The
Red Lion Hotel is agreeably decorated, family friendly
and serves food. Canal side by bridge 41 the Barge and
Bridge specialises in steaks. Atherstone top lock has a
traditional lock keeper’s cottage that still houses a
traditional lock keeper, with an attractive basin
beyond.
Mancetter follows,
originally a Roman settlement and thought of by many to
be the scene of Boadicea’s defeat by the Romans way back
in AD60. Hartshill is next, seen at its best canal side,
with Hartshill Yard boasting an arched dock crowned by
an iconic clock tower and a British Waterways heritage
site. Shortly after, by bridge 29, you will find our
local, the canal side Anchor Inn. The food here is
plentiful, inexpensive and tasty and the welcome always
warm. Only 20 minutes cruise away from our marina, this
makes an ideal mooring for your last evening aboard your
Valley Cruises boat. (If you are coming from the
opposite direction there is a turning point where you
can just about squeeze a 70 foot boat around between
bridges 34 and 33 in order to be facing the correct way
for your morning return.) Along this stretch of canal
evidence of the area’s mining history is to be seen.
Quarries abound and strange pyramid shaped spoil tip
mounds are silhouetted against the horizon. Our nearest
one is known affectionately as Mount Jud after the
Judkins Granite Quarry from which it was extracted; our
largest local landmark, it can be seen from miles away.
The leafy serenity of Spring Wood becomes visible on the
left as you near our beautiful Springwood Haven Marina,
nestled in the idyllic Trent Valley and surrounded by
farmland.
Passing under bridge 27,
Wood Bridge, and past the quarry, impressively
industrial and rumoured to be destined to become the
next marina on the Coventry Canal, you will soon find
yourself nudging the outskirts of Nuneaton with its
canal side properties, allotments and football ground.
Its most famous ‘son’ is the famous author George Eliot
whose statue takes pride of place in the town square.
Many of her novels feature places from the local area
and walks demonstrating this are available for
aficionados. She also plays a central role in the town’s
Museum and Art Gallery. Nuneaton’s traffic free centre
is a good walk from the canal via bridge 21 and has all
the shopping and eating facilities associated with a
sizable town. There is a market on Wednesdays and
Saturdays, one of the largest in the country. (For those
wishing to take on provisions before boarding their boat
Nuneaton’s large Asda is only ten minutes drive away
from our marina.) Chivers Cotton Craft Centre is
accessible from bridge 19.
The scenery again becomes
more rural as you approach the remote Marston, junction
with the Ashby Canal. The canal spends much of the next
mile skirting the town of Bedworth. This also has a
lovely market on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday and offers
the family friendly Navigation pub by bridge 14. You
will soon arrive at Hawkesbury Junction, from where the
Oxford Canal is accessed. Attractive and bustling today,
it was a favourite meeting place for boat folk of old
and is home to the well known Greyhound Inn (its wise to
book for meals and, sadly, children are not permitted
after 7pm). |
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Once moored at the basin,
a short taxi ride will see into the heart of the City of
Coventry. Traditionally believed to have been
established in the year 1043 with the founding of a
Benedictine Abbey by the Earl of Mercia and his wife,
Lady Godiva, Coventry’s history is intrinsically linked
with this lady’s celebrated exploits. The addition of a
market caused the town to grow and, by the 14th century,
Coventry had become an important centre of the cloth
trade and was one of the largest and most important
cities in England, being granted city status in 1345. In
the late-19th century, Coventry became a major centre of
bicycle manufacture, pioneered by Rover. By the early
20th century this evolved into motor production making
Coventry a major centre of the British Motor Industry.
Coventry
was targeted during World War II due to its high
concentration of armaments, munitions and engine plants
which contributed greatly to the British war effort. It
suffered severe bomb damage which devastated most of the
historic city centre and all but the outer walls and
spire of Coventry's original Cathedral. (See picture) In
the postwar years Coventry was largely rebuilt, gaining
a new pedestrianised shopping precinct (the first of its
kind in Europe on such a scale) and the much-celebrated
new Saint Michael’s Cathedral in 1962, incorporating the
world's largest tapestry. Coventry has since enjoyed an
international reputation as one of Europe's major cities
of peace and reconciliation and holds an annual Peace
Month. Coventry's motor industry boomed during the 1950s
and 1960s, but during the 1970s the British motor
industry underwent decline and Coventry suffered badly
as a result.
In recent years newer
industries have located in Coventry and major
improvements continue to regenerate the city centre. At
present these include the redevelopment of the Belgrade
Theatre and the building of IKEA’s first city centre
multistorey store. Future projects include the deepening
of Swanswell Pool which will be linked to Coventry Canal
Basin, coupled with the creation of an urban marina and
a wide Parisian-style boulevard. Tourists attractions
include the free-to-enter Coventry Transport Museum,
which has the largest collection of British-made road
vehicles in the world and contains the world speed
record-breaking cars, Thrust2 and ThrustSSC. There is
also the Midland Air Museum and a police force museum
located in the city’s main police station, along with
the Herbert Art Gallery and Museum, the reconstructed
Roman Lunt Fort and Coventry City Farm.
And finally…why “sent to
Coventry”? The 14th Century Saint John’s (or Bablake)
Church became a prison for hundreds of the Duke of
Hamilton’s troops during the Civil War of 1647. The
Puritan people of Coventry, loyal to the parliamentary
cause, shunned the prisoners and so it came to be that
those “sent to Coventry” where, and still are,
completely ignored’. |